Winter colors: Deep, True and Bright Winter

Winter palettes are cool and clear, with strong contrast: think black and white, jewel tones and icy accents. The three Winter seasons share that crispness but differ in depth and brightness.

What the Winter seasons share

All three Winter seasons suit colors with a blue base that look clean and saturated. Think true red, royal blue, emerald, fuchsia, black and pure white. Earthy, golden and dusty colors tend to look muddy against Winter coloring.

Winter coloring often has noticeable contrast, for example dark hair against light skin, or bright eye whites against a dark iris. That contrast is not about skin depth: Winters can have very fair or very deep skin. The three Winters differ in which quality leads: depth, coolness or brightness.

The swatches below are examples. Screens vary, so treat them as a guide to the direction of each palette.

Deep Winter

Deep Winter, also called Dark Winter, is led by depth, with coolness second. It neighbors Deep Autumn, so it is the darkest Winter and can wear a few warmer deep shades. People in this season often have dark brown to black hair, dark eyes and medium to high contrast.

Neutrals: black, charcoal, ink navy, cool dark brown and bright white.

Metals: silver, platinum and gunmetal. Some Deep Winters also wear deep, polished gold well.

Skip: pastels, orange, camel, beige and light dusty shades, which can look faded next to deep coloring.

True Winter

True Winter, also called Cool Winter, is led by coolness. It is the most blue-based, icy Winter. Hair is often dark and cool-toned, or silver-gray, skin tends to look rosy, porcelain or cool, and eyes are often dark or a cool, clear color.

Neutrals: black, pure white, charcoal, cool gray and navy.

Metals: silver, white gold and platinum.

Skip: orange, golden yellow, camel, warm browns and muted earth tones. These are too warm and too soft for this season.

Bright Winter

Bright Winter, also called Clear Winter, is led by clarity, with coolness second. It neighbors Bright Spring, so it is the most vivid Winter and can wear a few warmer brights. People in this season often have very clear, striking eyes and strong contrast between hair, skin and eyes.

Neutrals: black, bright white, charcoal and navy.

Metals: polished silver and shiny gold. High shine suits this season better than a brushed finish.

Skip: dusty, muted shades like mauve, sage or khaki, along with beige and heavy earth tones. They look flat against clear coloring.

Telling the three Winters apart

Hold three reds near your face in daylight: a black cherry, a blue-red and a bright cherry red.

• If black cherry looks best and the bright red feels a little loud, lean toward Deep Winter.
• If the blue-red looks best and warmer reds make you look sallow, lean toward True Winter.
• If the bright red looks best and black cherry looks heavy, lean toward Bright Winter.

Bright Winter and Bright Spring share a love of vivid color. The difference is temperature: fuchsia and cobalt lean Winter, coral and warm turquoise lean Spring.

Practical tips for Winters

• Use contrast on purpose. Black with white, navy with icy pink, or charcoal with emerald often looks more polished on Winters than all-neutral outfits.
• Pick pure white over cream. Cream can look yellow or dingy next to cool, clear coloring.
• Keep accents clear. One vivid color, such as a red lip or a cobalt scarf, usually beats several soft ones.
• Watch "nearly right" colors. A green can be Winter-cool but too dusty. If a color seems flat, look for a cleaner, more saturated version.